Most modern refrigerators draw 100–400 W while running, with startup surges of 500–1,600 W depending on model and compressor. To run a typical 150 W fridge for 24 hours you’d need ~3,600 Wh of usable battery capacity (150 W × 24 h = 3,600 Wh), plus a safety buffer for inverter losses and repeated cycling. For practical emergency use a 2,000–4,000 Wh power station with a 2,000–3,000 W inverter usually covers fridges for many hours or a day. Use the fridge’s rated running and surge watts when sizing.
Quick tip: Always size for running watts × hours needed + 20% overhead and confirm the inverter can handle the fridge’s surge.

Runtime depends on fridge wattage and battery capacity. Example: a 1,000 Wh battery can run a 100–150 W mini-fridge for ~6–10 hours; a 3,000–4,000 Wh system can run a 150 W refrigerator for 20–30+ hours if isolates other loads. Add solar input and cyclic compressor behavior (fridges cycle on/off), and runtime can extend across days. Always show the assumptions (running watts, duty cycle, Wh capacity) when showing estimates.
Quick tip: Measure your fridge’s actual average running watts (with a kill-a-watt) to get accurate runtimes.

Usually not in a literal sense. “Whole-house” depends on how many circuits and appliances you want to run. For full-house coverage you’ll need modular, inverter-grade systems (multiple inverters/batteries) with kW-class output and tens of kWh of storage; small portable stations are intended for essential loads only (fridge, lights, Wi-Fi). For many homes, 2000–4000 W inverters plus 4–25 kWh of storage (modular batteries or multiple units) can power critical circuits via a transfer switch.
Quick tip: List the circuits you must keep running (fridge, sump pump, medical devices) then size to those rather than “whole house.”

Estimate daily energy need (e.g., 3,600 Wh/day). In good sun, 1 kW of quality panels produces roughly 2–5 kWh/day depending on location and season. So, to replace 3.6 kWh in one sun-rich day you’d typically want about 800 W–1.5 kW of panels. Panel yield varies heavily by location (sun hours), tilt, shading and season; use local average peak-sun hours in your calculations.
Quick tip: Use your site’s solar-hour average (e.g., 4–6 peak sun hours) to compute panel wattage: Needed Wh ÷ peakSunHours.

For most homeowners the answer is yes for many use cases: solar generators are silent, emission-free, and low-maintenance, and they don’t need fuel storage. Gas generators still win for very long runtime on a budget and very high continuous power (e.g., powering entire HVAC and electric ranges). Solar systems have higher upfront cost but lower ongoing fuel costs and safer indoor use. Choose based on runtime needs, fuel logistics and noise/emissions tolerance.
Quick tip: Consider a hybrid approach: solar battery for daily outages + gas backup for extreme long events.

LiFePO₄ (lithium iron phosphate) is the preferred chemistry for home backup in 2025 because of longer cycle life (3,000–6,500+ cycles), superior thermal stability, and safety. NMC (nickel-manganese-cobalt) is lighter and sometimes cheaper initially, but tends to degrade faster and has lower cycle life. For long-term, daily or multi-year backup use LiFePO₄ is the safer, more cost-effective choice.
Quick tip: If you expect daily cycling, prioritize LiFePO₄ for longevity and warranty.

Recharge speed depends on the unit’s maximum solar input (W) and available sun. Small units accept 200–800 W; high-end modular systems accept 1,000–3,000 W or more. Example: a 4,000 Wh battery with 1,200 W solar input could theoretically recharge in 3–4 hours under perfect sun (ignoring losses). Real world factors — panel angle, clouds, temperature — typically slow this, so plan for longer recharge times.

Quick tip: Match panel wattage to the generator’s rated solar input and aim to reach the rated input in peak sun conditions.

Yes — but only if the generator has sufficient continuous inverter rating and surge capacity. Many window ACs need 1,000–2,500 W running and high starting surge; well pumps often require 2,000–6,000 W depending on motor size. For these heavy loads you should choose a 3,000–5,000 W continuous inverter and ensure battery capacity and (if using solar) high solar input to recharge. Not all portable stations can handle such equipment.
Quick tip: Check both running watts and starting (surge) watts on appliances — size inverter for surge.

Yes — modern portable solar power stations are safe for indoor use because they produce electricity from stored batteries (no combustion). They don’t emit carbon monoxide. Still observe normal battery precautions: avoid enclosed hot spaces, follow manufacturer ventilation guidance, and do not expose panels to stored water inside. For extended home integration, use proper transfer switches and a licensed electrician for panel or critical-circuit wiring.
Quick tip: Never run gas or diesel generators indoors — but solar battery stations are fine indoors when used per the manual.

As of 2025, expect $1,000–$4,000 for high-quality 1–4 kWh portable units; modular whole-home systems can run $5k–$20k+ depending on capacity and installation. Worth depends on your needs: if you need quiet, low-maintenance backup for refrigeration, medical equipment, and communications, many homeowners find mid-range LiFePO₄ systems pay back in convenience and avoided food/spoilage losses — and they remove fuel purchase/maintenance costs. ROI is highly individual (outage frequency, fuel costs, and whether you factor in comfort).
Quick tip: Compare total lifetime cost (purchase + expected cycles) rather than sticker price alone.

For anything beyond plugging individual devices into outlets you must install a proper transfer switch or an interlock kit and have a licensed electrician set it up. A transfer switch isolates critical circuits (fridge, furnace, outlets) from the grid so the generator feeds them safely. This avoids backfeeding the grid which is dangerous for utility crews and your equipment. Many high-end systems offer integrated subpanels for simple, professional install.
Quick tip: Hire an electrician and install an automatic transfer switch if you want seamless backup for essential circuits.

Maintenance is minimal compared with fuel generators: keep battery firmware up to date, store the unit at recommended temperature and charge level, occasionally cycle the battery if stored long-term, and keep solar panels clean/angled. Check connectors and cables for wear and verify firmware and BMS status via the app occasionally. For fixed whole-home installations, inspect wiring and supports annually.
Quick tip: Keep the battery at ~50–80% for long storage and perform one full cycle every 3–6 months.